|
|
|
Who's Online
There currently are 5796 guests online. |
|
Categories
|
|
Information
|
|
Featured Product
|
|
|
 |
|
|
There are currently no product reviews.
 ;
Excellent just what I needed to replace the electrolytic caps and make this old gem a beauty again. Was as scan of the original photocopied service manual.
;
It was helpful to get schematic with waveforms in important points and lot of service information. Manual is good quality, fast delivered. Of course it is hardcopy of paper one with all its disadvantages.
 ;
I want to give you a real heads-up for your desire to enable such people as I to acquire the information I need to maintain the older types of equipment such as this Akai HXA351W. You do a swell job with all the processes you have to perform so I can have a legible, thus usable
document which does not send me crazy trying to figure out the blurry text of a bad copy.
Very well done, Thomas.
;
This manual is very well presented and after printing out looks about as close to an original as I think you can get. The quality is second to none.
The content of the manual is comprehensive and I think it would be well suited to an audio repair professional which I'm not but I did find it very informative and helpful.
The cost of the manual is more than covered by the money I'll save when I change the keep memory battery now I have the relavant info.
Very pleased with my purchase and can recommend it wholeheartedly as I can other manuals I've downloaded from this site.
Regards
Limey Alex
;
Complete manual including mechanical part in good pdf quality. Shaded greys of the pcb due to pdf not perfect but usable.
BassLink T
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE FOR BASSLINK T (ACCESS TO AMPLIFER, DRIVERS)
1) On a protected work surface, stand the unit up so the back panel is facing you. 2) Remove the (12) Phillips screws holding the black heatsink to the enclosure. Do not remove the heatsink at this time. 3) Remove the (36) Phillips screws holding the back panel to the main enclosure. Note in the area of the heatsink, two screws are shorter, machine screws. 4) Carefully separate the back panel from the main enclosure; try not to damage the O-ring that may be adhered to both sides of the enclosure, preventing its separation. Note the LED wires from the heatsink area routed to the amplifier; unplug the 2 lead connection at female connector M2 on the amplifier. Set the heatsink and LED w/ wires aside. 5) Unplug the woofer wires from the terminals. 6) Completely separate the two enclosure halves. SERVICING THE INPUT/PREAMP SECTION 7) Remove the (8) Phillips screws holding the cover plate to the enclosure. 8) With a wood chisel or similar tool, carefully pry the plastic cover away from the cup, working around the perimeter, until the cover is detached. If the cover is damaged during this procedure, order part# 309-ABS-05002. REASSEMBLY 9) If the cover to input/preamp section was detached, apply a bead of silicon sealer or similar adhesive around the perimeter of the cover, in the sealing groove. Without this adhesive, there may be an air leak which would affect performance. Press the cover into place. 10) Attach the woofer wires. 11) Before the enclosure can come together, connecting the heatsink/LED wire presents a challenge if not correctly done. The LED wire must thread through the enclosure, the small hole in the aluminum heatsink plate, and back into the M2 connector on the amplifier. The position in which this is best achieved is with Basslink T laying flat side down on a surface, woofer side up. Partially bring the enclosure halves together, and work through the remaining gap near the heatsink end. See illustration. 12) Make sure the O-ring around the perimeter of the enclosure is intact and in place. Make sure the two shorter machine screws are used in the back panel, in the area near the heatsink. 13) Replace all enclosure and heatsink screws.
8
|
|
|
> |
|
